My most memorable road trip took place in January 2020 in Syria, during the time when Assad was in power. After nearly a week with a local driver of exploring Syria’s landmarks, we eventually reached the Syria–Jordan border as planned. We believed we were well prepared, having taken COVID tests the night before.
However, at the border we were required to take new tests. It was there that we learned my partner had tested positive. As a result, we were denied entry into Jordan. At the same time, our Syrian visa had expired, and we were no longer welcome back there either. For a moment, we found ourselves stuck between two countries.
After a long wait and considerable uncertainty, we were finally allowed to leave back to Syria. We drove through the night, stopping at numerous checkpoints (we hoped every was official, and that repeating the words ‘corona’ and ‘hospital’ would be enough to let us pass. It was.), until we reached the Lebanese border. There, no one was interested in COVID tests at all—neither the new one nor the one from the previous evening. The only thing they wanted to see was a plane ticket. During that night, we managed to organize it.
Much more happened that night, and although it felt long and heavy, I captured it only in brief.
